Created in 1946, Tudor was the second watch brand created by German watchmaker, Hans Wilsdorf, founder of one of the most highly recognized watch brands on earth today, Rolex. His vision was to create watches using the same unique distinguished formula used on Rolex cases (waterproof screw down case backs and crowns) but fitted with outsourced movements. This way he was able to offer Rolex quality cases at a more affordable price.
Whilst the Tudor Watch Co were synonymous for their reliable and robust watches, Tudor had been looked at as a younger sibling brand to Rolex. However, almost seventy years later and stepping out of its brothers shadow, Tudor have taken a big leap by borrowing a page from Rolex, who are known for creating movements which are developed, manufactured and quality checked within its own premises.
First initiated in 2010, a new chapter in the brands history was about to be written as Tudor started development on its first in-house calibre movements . The new MT56 (Manufacture Tudor) range of movements which took around four years to create, came to life at BaselWorld 2015, when Tudor not only launched its new movement but also a new model, the new North Flag which housed the MT5621 Calibre movement.
Having a new movement meant adapting to new technology, and since the North Flag was created for active people with a taste of style and adventure, Tudor have done exactly that . Living up to expectations, the North Flag offers quite a bit under its hood, apart from its Power Reserve feature ( which is visible on the dial ), the MT5621 Calibre is fitted with a silicon balance spring beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) which has been secured by a traversing bridge to enhance resistance to shocks and vibrations.
With such astounding results, the MT56 family grew, which led to Tudors 2016 Heritage Black Bay range getting its new power source . Labeled the “MT5602”, the Black Bays power source (like the rest of the MT family) comes with a 70 hour aka “weekend proof” power reserve, meaning if you take off the watch on Friday evening you’ll be able to put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it, pretty impressive hey?! But Tudor didn’t just stop there, like every Rolex Calibre, Tudors new movements are all COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) certified, which not only is a first for Tudor but also gives the movement an independent appreciation of accuracy and precision .
Whilst most of the focus has been on its new movement, many have failed to notice how Tudor, as a brand, have taken on a more diverse approach, catering for almost every type of watch enthusiast. From its line of “Tool Watches” which carry a symbol of adventure to the more sophisticated and elegant “Glamour Range”, and not forgetting my personal favorite “Heritage Black Bay” range where two of its novelties alone show the diversity of the brand.
The Heritage Black Bay Dark which draws characteristic features from past models takes on an ultra mod appearance having a full PVD treated casing, and the Heritage Black Bay Bronze which takes on a more “vintage/mature” look. Taking inspiration from the use of bronze in historic diving equipment and ships, the 43mm bronze brushed casing guarantees to age to match its users ways as the patina on bronze gradually changes color.
So here’s the big question , how have all these changes impacted on the brands pricing??
Well thats the cherry on the top, Taking into consideration the different aspects, such as design, reliability, precision, and not forgetting the “Revival” and “Petite Aiguille” award taken in 2015 and 2016 respectively by Tudors Black Bay range, Tudor have some how managed to keep its pricing below a 10% increase compared to previous models which housed the old ETA movements .
Visit a retailer near you or www.tudorwatch.com and choose your adventure..
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The Dark Knight rises. . . Dressed in all Black, yet true to its heritage, which dates back over 60 years by drawing characteristic features from past models in Tudors history, the ‘Tudor Black Bay Dark’ provides the best of both Worlds, giving the appearance of black military utility equipment or the ultimate accessory to a well-tailored suit . Using a fully PVD treated casing, Tudor has taken a well calculated step into the unknown, keeping in mind the Black Bay is a divers watch, Tudor gives the wearer an opportunity of taking a dive into uncharted territory . Experience the full collection at a Tudor Retailer near you. . . Swipe left for more